Guide written by:
Pauline, Self-taught DIYer, Leeds
Your hamster cage, whether you go for a barred, wooden or plexiglass model, should be as big as possible, well-ventilated and easy to disassemble.
In terms of equipment, you'll need a water bottle and food bowl, as well as a wheel where your pet can tire themselves out. You might also want to provide a house, tunnels, a sand bath or a variety of other rodent accessories.
Your choice of bedding (hemp, flax, cotton and so on) will be based on your hamster's habits and your budget.
Your pet should be fed on a mixture of ready-mixed pellets, hay and fresh fruit and veg.
Although there are hundreds of hamster breeds, five are particularly suitable as pets:
Golden hamster or Syrian hamster: has an orange colour, is 13 to 15 cm in size and is the biggest of its species. It is also the most common pet hamster species due to its easy-going nature. It gets used to contact very easily meaning adults and little-ones will be able to cuddle it.
Russian dwarf hamster or white dwarf hamster: much smaller at around 10 cm, it has a greyish tone with stripes on the back. It is independent but docile. However, it does move a lot and will therefore need a cage that is large enough for it to run around in.
Chinese hamster: with its elongated body and grey-brown coat, this hamster has a mouse-like appearance. As it is a fearful and wild species, you will have to be patient for it to become sociable and used to you. Although it doesn't bite a lot, it can be aggressive with other hamsters.
Roborovski hamster: with its brown-white coat and size of about 5 cm, it is the smallest dwarf hamster. This type of hamster is very lively and active and doesn't generally like to be handled, therefore it is not suitable for children to play with. The cage bars must be tight enough so that it isn't able to slide between them, so choose a model with plastic sides.
Siberian dwarf hamster: although it looks like the Russian dwarf hamster, it is bigger and rarer. Its golden-brown coat and white belly can turn completely white in winter. The Siberian dwarf hamster can be shy but it also lively, playful and easy to tame.
Although the personality of a hamster varies from one breed and one individual to another, they have a few common characteristics:
The hamster is a friendly and sociable animal, but does not necessarily enjoy being handled. If you have children, choose a golden hamster, which will be easier to tame and cuddle. Start to tame it from an early age.
Hamsters are not very aggressive, unless they are completely unaccustomed to your smell and voice and you surprise them in their sleep, for example. Never grab or handle them with force. Be patient, a hamster that bites is one that is scared or suffering. If this is the case, a visit to the vet is needed.
While most hamsters are solitary creatures and do not like to live with other hamsters, Siberian and Roborovski dwarf hamsters like to live in pairs, but there is a chance they will have lots of babies. If you want to adopt two hamsters of the same sex, choose two females rather than two males who are likely to fight.
Hamsters are lively animals who need to exercise. Therefore, they need to be taken regularly out of their cage. Although the golden hamster can be regularly left free in the home, with the risk that it nibbles on some electrical wires, it is more difficult for the other smaller and faster breeds. A playpen where they can safely enjoy their freedom is a solution, as well as a playball that you can put them in, while paying attention to any steps or stairs where they could fall down. A hamster wheel also needs to be put in their cage where they can let off steam.
A hamster is not always patient. As soon as it starts to get annoyed and bite, put it back in its cage.
Hamsters are rather strong animals provided that you take care of their health by keeping them away from draughts of cold air, regularly cleaning their cage and carefully choosing their food:
Hamsters can quickly become stressed so it is important to respect their calm way of life.
To avoid respiratory and eye conditions, hamsters must be protected from draughts and excessive temperature variations.
Parasites such as fleas, ticks and mites can lead to hamsters scratching themselves to the point of injury or exhaustion, so good cage maintenance is necessary. If the cage is already infested, a complete disinfection is needed.
An unsuitable diet can lead to diarrhoea and even food poisoning. Hamsters are also prone to obesity, so must be able to exercise in and out of their cage. Also, be careful of food that is too sticky, as it can get stuck in the hamster's cheek pouches and they won't be able to get rid of it. In which case, a trip to the vets will be needed.
If your hamster gets bored and spends too much time licking itself, the fur it swallows can form fur-balls that build up in its stomach, causing a lack of appetite and weight loss. Once again, it will need to see the vet.
Your hamster's incisors grow throughout its life. Therefore, it is necessary to wear them down regularly by getting them to gnaw on small wooden blocks, for example. If their teeth become too long, the animal will no longer be able to feed itself properly.
Hamsters are also susceptible to tumours, just like mice and rats. Matter can form under the skin which may require surgery.
Hamsters are very active animals and need a large cage to roam around. The cage needs to measure at least 50 cm in length, 30 to 40 cm in width and about 40 cm in height. However, the larger your pet's home, the better they will feel in it.
The cage must also be well-ventilated in order to prevent unpleasant odours from building up (particularly ammonia from hamster urine). It should also be easy to take apart to facilitate cleaning.
Make sure that the cage is kept in a draught-free location away from direct sunlight. The area should also be quiet as your hamster sleeps during the day rather than at night. There are a few different types of cage to choose from.
Metal bar cages are the most traditional option as they offer a range of advantages: they offer excellent ventilation, they are easy to clean and give you more contact with your pet.
These cages are also cheap and allow you to easily attach accessories such as water bottles. Your hamster will also be able to scale the sides of the cage!
That said, don't pick a cage that is too high to avoid the risk of falls (unless there is a middle level). Be sure to check that the bars aren't too far apart to prevent your hamster from escaping. Another downside of this type of cage is that bedding can escape through the bars.
Wooden cages are attractive to look at and often combine several materials, such as plexiglass, metal bars or mesh, to allow you to see your pet.
While they are affordable, wooden cages are hard to clean as the wood will absorb urine.
Plexiglass cages allow you not only to see your hamster grow but also help to keep bedding inside the cage. They also reduce noise and will stop your hamster from escaping! Expect to pay around £40 for this type of cage.
The drawback of plexiglass is that it does not offer good ventilation and can become cloudy over time. It is also trickier to clean than other materials and you won't be able to attach any accessories directly to it.
Originally designed for reptiles, terrariums feature plexiglass sides and a barred roof. Another attractive option, terrariums allow you to look at your hamster and bedding (along with your hamster!) will not be able to escape. These cages are also quieter.
However, terrariums do come with a number of disadvantages: they are quite expensive, they do not offer very good ventilation, they are hard to clean and don't have bars to hang accessories on.
Certain accessories are essential while others are less important, but still recommended to enhance your pet's well-being.
Food bowls should be made of a heavy material to stop your hamster from tipping the bowl over. A strong and easy-to-clean material such as ceramic will be ideal. A hay rack can be used to provide your hamster with hay without it mixing with the bedding and getting dirty.
Your hamster also needs regular hydration. While a water bowl is easier to drink from, a plastic or glass water bottle attached to the side of the cage cannot be tipped over and will help to keep the bedding clean.
An essential piece of equipment for your pet's well-being, wheels will allow your hamster to get regular exercise. Whether made of wood, plastic or metal, hamster wheels should be made of a solid material (and not bars) to avoid their paws slipping through.
Some models are quieter than others. It's important not to overlook this bearing in mind that most of your pet's activity will take place in the middle of the night!
A little house will provide your hamster with a shelter to hide in during the day. These houses come in a range of materials including plastic, wood and ceramic. Pick a model with a removable roof for easier cleaning.
You might also want to give your hamster a few tunnels or pipes. Make sure they are wide enough for your hamster: at least 6 cm for dwarf breeds and 8 cm for Syrian hamsters. An assortment of bridges and ladders will provide your hamster with a source of entertainment and help to decorate the cage.
Providing a sand-filled container will allow your hamster to rid their fur of excess sebum for a shinier coat. Do not use regular sand. You will need to purchase a very fine grey sand usually sold as chinchilla sand.
If your cage is high enough, you can install another level to provide your hamster with extra space. This will also help to prevent dangerous falls.
Specially designed chews or wooden blocks will help to wear down your hamster's teeth which grow continuously.
If you choose to source your own wood, be sure to avoid toxic materials. Hamsters are particularly fond of nut woods. Put any twigs in the oven for about 20 minutes before offering them in order to kill bacteria.
Bedding is used to make the cage comfortable and to absorb waste. It's important to pick an absorbent and non-toxic material.
Hemp bedding is popular as it is soft and won't stick to fur. It is also very absorbent. However, be careful: some hamsters are allergic to hemp.
Comfortable and dust-free, flax bedding is also absorbent but doesn't limit odours as well as other materials. It will therefore have to be changed more regularly.
Dust-free and less likely to spread, corn cob bedding does not tend to trigger allergies as much as hemp. However, it is not very comfortable.
Very soft and warm, cotton bedding is ideal for use in the winter or for filling your hamster's house. It is, however, pricier than other bedding options.
To ensure your hamster is comfortable and healthy, the cage must be kept clean to prevent parasites, illness and bad odours.
Food bowls and water bowls must be thoroughly cleaned daily. If you have chosen a water bottle, this must also be kept perfectly clean.
Remove droppings from the bedding daily, as well as any food waste.
A weekly clean of the cage is needed. This must be done step by step:
Start by placing your hamster in another safe area, such as an exercise ball, a small playpen or a carrier.
Remove any items and accessories from the cage, such as the food bowl, wheel, house, pipes, chews etc. At the same time, check to see if these are all in perfect condition and are not likely to hurt your pet. Replace them if needed.
Thoroughly clean them, ideally with a specialist product; some household cleaners can be toxic for hamsters. They are also extremely sensitive to odours.
Remove and throw away all bedding.
Clean the bottom of the cage with a sponge soaked with the same cleaning product used for the other items and accessories.
Dry the cage, items and accessories with a cloth, without forgetting the bars.
Put the clean bedding back at the bottom of the cage, then reinstall all items and accessories.
Put your pet back in the cage.
Hamsters are omnivores, meaning they eat a little of everything. Their diet can be quite varied.
Ready-mixed pellets are handy and will provide your hamster with a balanced diet. An adult hamster requires around 25 g of food per day.
This food source provides fibre to aid digestion. Place the hay or alfalfa in a hay rack designed for small rodents and place the rack high up in the cage so your hamster has to pull down on the hay to access it.
Fruit and vegetables will provide your hamster with vitamins, fibre and minerals. They should be washed and given in small quantities.
Before adopting a hamster, start by choosing the breed that corresponds to you, while keeping in mind that it is not an animal particularly suited to young children. Then you need to take into account the factors that affect their lifestyle:
Hamsters are often solitary creatures who do not get on well with other hamsters. If you want to adopt more than one, you will need a cage for each.
The hamster cage must be placed in a calm place as hamsters don't like noise or shouting. It must also be sheltered from cold air draughts. However, avoid putting it in a bedroom if you want to avoid getting woken up as hamsters are a nocturnal animal.
You will need to adapt to their nocturnal lifestyle by respecting their sleeping patterns and avoiding waking them while they sleep, as they can become aggressive and their health can deteriorate. Therefore, you can interact with them in the evening and not during the day.
Take the time to tame them before trying to handle them by offering treats placed in your hand and speaking softly. However, some breeds do not like this at all. You can also put a small box or a roll of paper towels in front of them which they will happily slide into, in order to play with them.
The cage must be regularly cleaned and maintained, the bedding changed and water and food regularly added.
Note that a hamster's lifespan is quite short and varies between species; usually between 2 and 3 years on average.
Guide written by:
Pauline, Self-taught DIYer, Leeds
With a handyman-father, I grew up with the soft sound of the sander and hammer on weekends. I am both manual and cerebral, I learned the basics of DIY and the customisation of furniture because I was passionate. The salvage mentality is a true way of life that allowed me to know how to use all the tools and products needed to give something a second life, from a sander to varnish. I have two favourite activities: the transformation of old furniture and decoration tips. I am always ready to lend a helping hand to revamp a table or to restore a mirror that was intended for the tip that will become a friend’s centrepiece. I’m convinced that it’s possible to reinvent an interior by small, regular modifications and I constantly research low-cost ideas.